Eco-Terr Info

Cut Sheets
Specifications
Preparation & Installation
Care & Maintenance

Cut Sheets

Specifications

Slabs

Eco-Terr Slabs Specifications Sheet

Tiles

Eco-Terr Tiles Specifications Sheet

Preparation & Installation

Our terrazzo is a natural product that enhances the aesthetic and mechanical characteristics of the material that is made of. If you're looking for an original compositional for an elegant house or highly resistant floor it's an ideal solution.

Composition

It contains a high quantity of stone and cement of the best quality (Portland 5.25 1 Class) and is mixed with a limited amount of water (ratio water/cement 0.28 - 0.32), resulting in a very homogenous, dense and compact structure. With the process of vacuum-packing with vibro-compaction, the tile becomes better looking and more resistant.

Benefits

• Tiles are perfectly rectified on all 4 sides and edges are seamed (chamfered)

• Tiles are calibrated.

• Highly resistant to UV rays, light, compression and atmospheric agents.

• Ideal for indoor or outdoor.

• Is made of completely natural and eco-compatible elements.

• Fireproof.

• Easy to install and maintain.

Care of Terrazzo Tiles

Few flooring materials require less care than terrazzo tiles. Once you understand why this classic product is nearly maintenance free, you can begin to take advantage of its beauty and economy.

Terrazzo should be cleaned with a neutral cleaner that has PH near 7 and is free of harmful alkali, acids, etc. Wet-mop according to manufacture's instructions and rinse with clean water. Always use a clean mop. Electric scrubbing machines, used periodically with a solution of neutral cleaner, will loosen dirt in difficult spots. Use only non-oily dressing for daily sweeping. Those that contain oil are a fire hazard. Some also contain sand that is difficult to sweep up and abrades if left on the floor.

Recommended Maintenance

Dust-mop dressing, neutral cleaners, dressings and sealers must be labeled specifically for use in terrazzo.

Installation of Terrazzo

Instructions for Laying

The base of the reinforced-concrete bearing structure constitutes the Slab. Tiles are hardly ever placed directly on the "slab". The foundation for the tile flooring (natural stone, wood and resilient) is always formed of screeds, with a few exceptions.

Screed or "Caldana"

The screed is a building unit produced and laid on a bearing foundation (floor), on a non-stick layer ("floating screed) or on an intermediate insulating layer (soundproofing: acoustic; heat insulation: cork; polystyrene, lightened material, e.g. light concrete), which can be used as it is, or may be coated with a green-laid lining or stuck later with an adhesive (see Fig 1)

Fig. 1

1. Compressible material
2. Terrazzo Tiles
3. Setting bed (screed)
4. Bearing floor

The laying of terrazzo tiles can be executed as follows:

1) Traditional Laying on Mortar
2) Laying with adhesive

The screed is cast and smoothed, then it must be dried and aged for at least 28 days before tiles are installed with adhesive.

1) Laying an Mortar
a) Laying on wet cement mortar

Prepare the mixture by blending 4 parts of clean sand with 1 part of cement (use suitable, high-grade materials) and add clean water.

Remove any possible dust and trace of mold mortar or other materials from the surface on witch the tiles are expected to be laid. Dampen lightly the surface where the cement mortar mixture will be laid (the foundation must already be set).

Lay and level the cement mortar mixture so as to get an even layer approx. 2" thick (there must not be water on the setting bed of cement mortar: it has just to be slightly damp.)

• Do not lay large areas of cement mortar at the same time because, depending on the environmental conditions, it may lose its softness after some time, thus affecting the subsequent laying and leveling of tiles.

• Once the cement bed is properly laid and leveled (foundation), its surface has to be evenly dusted with dry cement: the so-called "dusting" operation.

• After having plunged the terrazzo tiles in clean water for a few seconds and drained them well so as to get the tile back-face damp, lay them on the foundation according to the type of joint required (it is advisable to always leave a joint of at least 2 mm between the tiles),

• Press and gently tap the tiles so as to position them flat and with a uniform contact with the foundation, while making sure the cement mortar does not surface from the joints.

• In order to be sure the operation has been properly performed, check occasionally if a certain homogenous quantity of cement mortar remains stuck to the back-face of the laid tile once the tile is removed.

• Seal up the joints about 4-5 days after the tile laying so as to allow a minimum setting of the cement mortar, when performing this operation, it is advisable to clean up tiles as quickly as possible from any possible trace of filler caused by the excess of sealing material in the joints.

b) Laying on semi dry cement mortar

• Prepare the mixture by batching 150 to 200 kg of cement per cubic meter of aggregates (the particle size of the aggregate is 0-4 mm). If possible, the mortar must be machine mixed.

• The setting bed (foundation) must then be compacted and leveled so as to be as flat as possible.

• The so-called "dusting" operation is then carried out: a thin layer of pure, dry cement is dusted on the still fresh bed of cement mortar, immediately before tiles are laid.

• Tiles are laid and wetted so that water, while penetrating the joints not yet sealed, makes the mixture softer and enables the precise arrangement of tiles; moreover, water enables the cement to react and achieve a correct hydration degree.
  At least, each tile is tapped in order to guarantee its flawless contact with the surface below (see Fig.2)

• The quantity of water used to perform this operation must be the one strictly necessary for the large size

• Seal p the joints about 4-5 days after the tile laying so as to allow a minimum setting of the cement mortar. It is advisable to remove any possible trace of filler as quickly as possible so that the material does not get dirty.

1. Spreading of mortar
2. Compaction
3. Leveling
4. "Dusting"
5. Tile laying
6. Wetting (in case of laying on semidry mortar)
7. Tile tapping
8. Sealing of the joints

Fig. 2

1. Compressible material
2. Terrazzo tiles
3. "Dusting"
4. Setting bed (screed)
5. Bearing floor

N.B. In case of outdoor applications, in direct contact, with the sunbeams, lay some wet cloths or sacks on the entire surface for at least 24 hours after tiles have been tapped.

Advantages of the laying on mortar

• The thick layer of mortar used on the area to be tilled, allows compensating for any possible unevenness of the foundation, therefore this type of laying is advisable when the substratum needs to be remarkably heightened.

• Lower costs.

Drawbacks and risks of laying on mortar

• An excess of water in the mixture may jeopardize both the adhesion and the planarity of the surfaces.

• It is hard to get all the foundation cement hydrated with a consequent risk of partial adhesion.

• Should some aggregates be polluted, the feared "efflorescence" phenomenon (slats coming to the tile surface) may occur.

• The system is not much flexible since it cannot bear shocks and stresses due to both weather conditions (temperature, rain, etc.) and mechanical stresses (vibrations, structural settlings, etc.).

• It takes quite a long time before you can step on the tile flooring.

• The substrate must be firm enough so as to prevent the formation of depressions or sags.

2) Laying with adhesive

It is essential the screed is perfectly prepared to have a successful laying with adhesive; therefore its preparation must stick to a precise procedure.

The screed is prepared, leveled, float-finished and aged (for at least 28 days); then tiles can be installed with the adhesive (see Fig 3).

1. The screed is prepared
2. It is leveled and float-finished
3. It must be hardened enough
4. Tiles are laid
5. Joints are sealed

Fig. 3

1. Compressible material
2. Terrazzo tiles
3. Adhesive
4. Screed
5. Bearing Floor

Solutions allowing for a quick-hardening and drying screed are available on the market. For instance using Kerakoll or Mapei products, the object is achieved even in a few days. In any case, the screed must satisfy some precise requirements, such as:

Ageing

One week for each 1/3" of thickness (or 28 days at least) is deemed necessary for the ageing to take place. There must anyway be a residual humidity equal to <2% for the cement screed and <0.5% for the anhydrite screed. The residual humidity is the balance between the humidity of the air and that of the cement products. It is necessary to observe the time specified above because all the cement foundations shrink: shrinkage is an unavoidable process, typical of cement that due to water evaporation, shrinks (gets shorter).

In cement screeds, the shrinkage is a loss of volume particularly rapid in the first weeks. The shrinkage duration lasts longer when thickness is higher because there is more water to evaporate than in any thinner screeds: therefore water needs more time to evaporate and slows down the "shrinkage process"

Compactness

Compactness is another essential characteristic of a screed to be considered as suitable. Empirical test; scraping a nail on the screed, neither deep scratches nor dust must form; similarly, when tapping it with a hammer, no mark must be seen and the upper part of the screed must not subside. In case of a chalky screed, once the dust is removed, it must not crumble leaving scraps when you rub it with the hand. If the screed is too lean (with little binder), incoherent or burnt it is advisable to make it again.

Leveling

The surface must be flat. Disparities should not be more than 1/8".

Cracking

The capillary static cracks caused by the usual shrinkage of the cement mix do not create any problem to the glued system.

The visible cracks caused by an inhomogeneous shrinkage can be V-widen, provided the screed has dried; they must be previously made sound and blocked by making suitable expansion joints, where necessary.

Should any pre-existing joints be eliminated or restored, act in the following way: remove the old joint, V-widen the remaining crack, cut it crosswise in several points for 10-15", then put some iron rods in the middle of the screed thickness and fill it with epoxy resins + quartz powder. Act in the same way even in case of remaking a cast not properly carried out. Any void under the
screed must be filled up with expansion mortars or suitable products.

THE EXPANSION JOINTS IN THE SCREED MUST BE STRICTLY RESPECTED IN THE CLADDING!!

Cleaning

Check that the screed is clean, without dust or any friable part to be removed in order to prevent the
adhesive from sticking to a non-adherent layer.

The screed must be
Aged
Compact
Smooth
Flat
Without Cracks
Clean and dry.

Adhesive Glues

The right choice of the adhesive is essential for a correct laying. The availability on the market of various types of adhesive entails suitable information and most of all to scrupulously keep to the instructions of the manufacturing industries.

The choice of the adhesive shall be based on the climatic conditions, the type of application, the structure and nature of the foundation, the environment (internal or external). Lay the adhesive on the foundation and place the tiles on the wet adhesive before this forms the superficial pellicle. The open time of the various adhesives changes notably according to the climatic conditions: ask your supplier in advance about the characteristics of the adhesive you will use. Start the laying operation after checking that temperature and humidity comply with those set out in the technical cards of the adhesives.

Temperature should not be below +5°C or over +35°-40°C during the laying and for the 1-2 following days. Any surface strongly exposed to sun could be cooled by humidification with water (it is otherwise recommended to lay during the fresher hours). In dry and breezy climates, pay attention to the formation of the pellicle on the adhesive. Lay the adhesive on small areas and check wetting. The suitable adhesives for laying terrazzo can be schematically classified in:

Unmodified Hydraulic bond-based adhesives

Those are white or grey powders to be mixed with water when used, composed of cement, loads and synthetic resins.

Thin layer and without wetting either the floor or the material to be laid. Although usable, this type of adhesive is not recommended: because of the low absorption of terrazzo it results in a low mechanical fixing of the tile to the screed and the consequent risk of partial adhesion.

Modified Cement Adhesives

These are white or grey powdered adhesives to be mixed with water when laying (single-component)
or with synthetic latex (two-component).

These adhesives are similar to the hydraulic ones, but (during the powder production or the laying with liquids in dispersion) they are mixed with polymer additives, witch give them a higher adhesive strength and elasticity.

They are recommended for internal and external applications on foundations, whether absorbent or not, which are subject to expansion movements, water, frost and permanent water. Since it is a quick-setting adhesive with low wear in excess, it is the ideal product for laying terrazzo. !n case of elevated temperatures and ventilation, we suggest immersing the tiles in clean water for a few seconds before the laying and then dripping the excess water away in order to guarantee a safer grip between th4e tile and the foundation.
Make: kerakoll: H 40 Rapid; H 40 Marmorex - Mapei: keraflex; granirapid

Reactive resin-based adhesives

These adhesives are in form of paste or thick liquids to be mixed when used, composed of resins (polyester, polyurethane, and epoxy) and a hardener. These products react chemically, independently of the contact with air or the absorption degree of either the laid material or the foundation. Moreover, they are sensitive to temperature. Stick to the temperatures indicated in the specifications of the manufacturing industries, if you work at lower temperatures, the reaction will be very slow, thus not very practical for usage. These products are suitable for particular laying (on metals, rubber, pvc, etc,) Once hardened, they are waterproof. Recommended for environments that are subject to chemical attacks.
Make: Kerakoll: Supeflex- Maoer: Keralastic

Joints

We suggest laying the tiles with at least 2mm joint: in fact, all the international regulations we comply with adhesive against the butt joint pattern since it is the major causes of adhesion failures and even the least laying defect (uneven screed, inexperienced labor) appear much more visible. It is anyway possible to carry out either a butt joint pattern, where the elements are strictly in contact one another with just a very narrow unavoidable gap in between (in this regard we suggest you to pass the trowel's point between the elements) or an open joint pattern in which the adjacent elements do not abut, leaving a gap depending on their size, the type of material to be laid and the intended aesthetic appearance. The joints between the cladding elements are fundamental for any glued system and serve to absorb strains and differential movements of the entire system.

Usually joints are filled wit cement-based, even colored fillers. The filling operation is carried out using a suitable rubber spatula.

Start cleansing when the filler becomes opaque using a sponge and clan water so as to avoid any damage on the tile face. Sometimes, it can be extremely difficult to eliminate the traces of colored filler from the tile face, especially when they contrast with the color of the tile. In case of doubt, carry out a preliminary test. If the surface cannot be perfectly cleaned, it must be-treated with a suitable protective product.

Expansion Joints

• Strictly observe all the expansion joints existing in both the floor and the walls.

• In case of vast areas, create "dividing joints" of approx. 1/3" as follows: for high-traffic surfaces and foundations that are subject to movements or bending stresses, it is necessary to foresee panels of approx. 15'x15': for interiors and stable surfaces, approximately every 600 sf.

• Place the tiles approx. 1/3" far from walls, columns, edges, corners, etc.

• Use silicone sealant to fill the expansion joints.

Preparation & Installation Sheet

Care & Maintenance

To maintain surface luster apply standard cleaning methods and use neutral detergents. Avoid cleaning products that contain acid (even when diluted), alkaline detergents, strong solvents and paint strippers. Cleaning can be simply done by wet mopping with a neutral detergent; then rinse thoroughly with clean water and let dry.

To restore waxed surface gloss, coat periodically with a solution of the original finish wax diluted with water.

Product Information

No two tiles are alike. The allure of consistent irregularity is one of the popular characteristics which create the allure of natural beauty by the blend of component materials that comprise ECO-TERR®. It is recommended that tiles be laid side by side prior to installation to assure an even color blend.

Glass and mother-of-pearl are elements that differ in structure from the stone chips. Upon occasion one or more can become dislodged from the surface. This can happen during the polishing process. These fissures can be evened out with suitable natural stone surface fillers.

After installation some tiles may appear to lack uniform coloring. This is a natural phenomenon related to the evaporation process. When freshly installed, the humidity absorbed by the tiles from the adhesive can vary in tone from center to edges. It is destined to disappear during the drying process.

Storage

Do not leave materials outdoors since climatic conditions could affect the material causing damage to the surface or finish. ECO-TERR® is to be stored indoors.

Once received it is advised to install materials promptly. Do not leave materials in storage for any length of time as moisture and light can alter condition of materials. Long term storage could cause discoloration or fluorescence, especially in lighter colors.

ECO-TERR® is made of natural re-cycled stone components. The technical data may vary somewhat with each color blend..

Care & Maintenance Sheet